‘Secret’ restaurant well worth discovering

Location, location, location is always mentioned when buying a home. However, it also applies to restaurants, and few eating places in Paphos can beat the position of Vardas Seacret. From a commercial point of view, it is a shame that it is hidden from the main coastal road, but venture down the small side road by the Atlantica Golden Beach Hotel and Vardas is positioned right in front of you. Do not let the fact that from the back you can see nothing deter you. Of course, in Paphos there are lots of options by the sea, but the dramatic view at sunset really sets Vardas apart.

The restaurant exemplifies the very trendy natural look – lots of wood and rattan, which do not argue with the raw seascape. The service was very friendly and professional from the moment we arrived. We had decided to dine straight from work, so we were early for us, but the restaurant was nearly full with a combination of locals and tourists. As we had prebooked, we had one of the tables right at the front by the sea, which added to the dining experience. The tables positioned more inland were great but did not have that direct view, which at sunset was to die for. It is definitely worth making a reservation and asking for one of these tables.

Both the wine list and food menu were beautifully presented in a luxurious format, although if scanning on your phone is your thing, that was also available on the table. The restaurant specialises in cold and raw dishes like tuna tartare, Octopus carpaccio, beef carpaccio, and sea bass ceviche, all available on the first page. Then a page of appetisers, followed by pages of salads, seafood and meat mains and fresh pastas and pizzas. The whole menu offered a great combination of casual options and fine dining classics. The surprisingly good thing though, given the exceptional location, were the prices. Many guests were enjoying cocktails, but we decided to go for a glass of wine, priced at a very reasonable €6.

A small platter of bread, olives and butter was delivered to the table while we perused the menu. We decided to share two starters; the winning dish was the Octopus Carpaccio. This had tender pieces of expertly sliced octopus that exuded the ocean’s subtle flavour with a winning combination of arugula, capers, cherry tomatoes, radishes and a white balsamic sauce. It was one of the best dishes of the night, offering a harmony of acidity, seasoning and fresh ingredients. The Mini Tacos, small tortilla breads with grilled king prawns combined with guacamole and mango pieces, were lovely and quickly devoured but lacked a little punch. They could have benefited from adding some spices or chillis, but that may be down to personal preference.

For the main event, the Stuffed Chicken Roll was well presented as the chicken breast was sliced into four pieces with herby French fries on the side. It was a fabulous version of the Mediterranean creation of a bread crumb coating and a stuffing of feta, spinach, sundried tomatoes, and pine nuts. The Pesto Chicken Penne offered a well-balanced creamy sauce infused with fresh basil, garlic and pine nuts. The pasta was cooked al dente with a slight firmness to it. The only criticism was that it disappeared far too quickly.

To conclude the meal, we chose a cheesecake from the limited dessert menu of just three options. The Cheesecake Dulce de Leche was divine, with the actual cheesecake reminiscent of a burnt Basque version, with the welcome addition of caramel sauce. It was a generous portion.

Vardas Seacret is actually a restaurant I only discovered last year due to its secret location on a road you would never venture down unless you had a purpose. As a dining experience, watching the sun set across the waves, it is easy to imagine you are on holiday, or just escape the chaos of the world for a couple of hours. Together with the fact that, unlike some restaurants in such a fantastic location, it won’t break the bank

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Mediterranean

WHERE Vardas Seacret, Plakas 1, Kissonerga, Paphos

WHEN Daily 12pm to 10 pm – later in high season

CONTACT 26 220878

HOW MUCH Raw Dishes from €14, Appetisers from €8, Salads from €12, Main Seafood from €16.50, Meat from €16, Fresh Pasta & Pizza from €14, Desserts from €9